Thursday, April 23, 2009

Terry 's Cynical thought about Tourism

One of the problems I have noted with modern tourism is that many of the places that were famous for a specific function are now tourist traps . e.g. Broadway became famous because it was where talented performers and writers could go to be seen by record producers or A&R men. It used to be packed with people in the industry, doing their job. Now, because it is famous, it has become a tourist spot, so much so that performers now play for tourists and people from the industry are no longer seen there, so it has now lost its core function and is just another tourist package, almost like Disney. At least Disney does not disguise that it is simply a product of tourism.
This is a sad observation that we have made several times on our visits to places. The tourism industry brings in more revenue than the core function, so why not cash in on the tourists.
However, on a brighter note, Sally thinks that I am being too subjective and that the true function of Nashville does continue and needs, as it always has needed, tourists to fill the audiences.

Nashville

Today we descended upon Nashville to taste the musical delights of the area.
Oh! We couldn't find anywhere to park easily.
Once we had found a parking meter, we went to the visitors center to find out what we could see. After talking to four different Visitor Center staff, we eventually were told that handicapped do not need to pay on parking meters.
The attractions seemed to be quite pricey and fairly well spaced.
So we looked at the musical attractions and found that there are a lot of music venues, each with their own schedule.
We eventually worked out that there was actually nothing we wanted to see, though David Peterson was on in one venue it was not until 9.00 at night, too late for us old fogies.
So we settled on taking a trolley ride round the city, that was very interesting, taking us through the government district, then the Music Square, where all the record companies are, then down Broadway, where all the cafes are. It was very interesting to get some of the history.
After the trolley we had a meal at Demos, (Italian) then strolled up Broadway, going into Hard Rock Cafe, The Bluegrass Cafe and Tootsie's, to see the bands playing. Also went into Gursche's the guitar shop and looked at all the very expensive guitars. Looked being the operative word.

After that, we fought the traffic to get back to our campsite, built a fire and considered our plans for the weekend.
On reflection, I don't think I was over impressed with Nashville, though it was nice to see a whole lot of live music, you could also see a lot of no hopers trying very hard. Nashville may be well known, but it has had its five minutes of fame with us.
So we are packing up this morning and going off to a small bluegrass festival at Brimstock, about 80 miles north east of here.

Sunday, April 19, 2009

An Evening at The Carter Family Fold

That brings us to Saturday, and our search for the origins of the Carter Family. We started the trip by having lunch at the Riverside Restaurant, an excellent seafood grill in Kingsport. Sally had a very nice jumbo (yummy) shrimp stuffed with crab meat, while I dived into a hamburger (no, not literally). We had a table on the patio overlooking the River Holsten. We then drove north over the state line into Virginia (another first for us), into the wilds of the Appalachian Mountains and sought out the place where the Carter Family lived and worked. A.P. Carter’s store still stands and the old homestead where he was born and raised has been moved to the same place. We took the long route to get there. Two valleys run side by side. Poor Valley is a dry limestone valley with high limestone ridges on either side (one of them is Clinch Mountain), with only a very small stream, but it had the railway (because it was straight). It was called Poor Valley, because everyone in it was poor. Parallel to it, is Little Valley, which has a big river which meanders quite incredibly in and out of rocky sandstone hills and outcrops. This valley had water, but is so twisty that you have to travel miles to get quite short distances. The Carters actually were raised in Little Valley, but moved over to Poor Valley when A.P. Carter started his general store. We really enjoyed motoring up the Little Valley, on a quiet road which hugged the river bank, then crossing into Poor Valley to get to Mace Springs, where the Carter Family Fold is.
As evening came on, the quiet country village started to fill and cars now lined the narrow country road. When the car park became full, people parked in adjoining fields. We went in to the show building and were immediately greeted by a couple of ladies I had met the previous evening. They waved aside my money and took us to seats they had reserved for us. Then began an evening of great bluegrass music by the Big Country Bluegrass Band. Most amazing of all was that as soon as the music started up, people streamed on to the concrete floor in front of the stage and began to dance. Most were wearing taps. What a great night. People came up to us and talked to us. There were kids all over the place, one woman even danced with her dog!! There was a food stand where we could buy BBQ pork sandwiches and Alison’s Homemade Potato Soup and crackers, amongst other things. Well, we had a great time. We were always conscious that we were in the heartland and capital city of mountain music. We drove home happy and tired.
Here is a great video of the evening on youtube
And also some pictures of our day

Finding Music in Kingsport

We have tried to find as much music as we can on our trip and this area is no exception. We have found some really good music.
Scanning the internet, World Wide Bluegrass, a radio station, I happened to chat to someone from Kingsport, who happened to be in a band (The Fall Creek Band), who happened to be having a concert on the Thursday we arrived. So we went. It was a great evening, in the local Civic Hall. Run by volunteers. Three bands, The Ball Sisters, local, nice girls, voices were a bit soft, good fiddle player. The next band was The Next Best Thing, daughters of Rhonda Vincent, nice sound, good voices. They had some very good musicians - Dobro, banjo and guitar - all good leads. Very enjoyable performnce.
Lastly The Fall Creek Band, very nice sound, phenomenal 15 year old girl on fiddle and vocals. The guy I had spoken too on the internet was her Dad. He played guitar. We had a great evening. Also got invited to a jam session on the Friday evening, went to that, enjoyed it, though everyone was really good. It is held in an old stage coach station and boat dock. We were playing in the little cabin next to The Cabin that Daniel Boone grew up in. It was a very pretty place and very historic.

Almost out of Tennessee

We have now moved on to stay at Warrior's Path State Park, almost in the middle of Kingsport. It is a beautiful park and we have taken some very nice pictures of views, plants and animals, which are on our Picasa site

We have come here for 2 main reasons.
1. To find out more about the roots of bluegrass/country music
2. To see, what on Google Earth looks like, some amazing geology.

Kingsport is a large town/small city in the top right hand corner of Tennessee, not easy to get to. It is part of a trio of towns called The Tri-Cities, including Bristol and Johnson City.
Kingsport is tucked on the wrong side of the Appalachians from the more prosperous North Carolina, with its rich piedmont and coastal plain. However, on arriving here, we have found it to be an extremely interesting area. It is a communication gateway. It was the first area outside of the13 colonies to be settled and many pioneers came through here. It is home to Davy Crocket and Daniel Boone (close anyway). It was an important area in the war of independence, though it seems to have got off lightly in the civil war.
It was on one of the old Cherokee Indian pathways, hence the name of the State Park, Warriers Path. More recently it has become the recognised birthplace of Country music (and hence its offshoot of Bluegrass). It is an area rich in mountain music.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Jamming in Kodak

After a couple of quiet days in Pigeon Forge Sally and I were ready to meet up with our Internet Bluegrassers (see Sunday) for a jam. except they are nont bluegrassers, but play more Old Time, which in these parts is often called Mountain Music, or Country music, not to be confused with Country And Western Music. Anyway we followed the trusty GPS to a lovely house overlooking a gentle valley and river. We were made really welcome and had a very pleasant evening playing with these three local chaps. Once again we returned to our trailer tired, but happy.

A major expedition to climb Clingman's Dome

The Smoky Mountains National Park is all about mountains. It's centrepiece is Clingman's Dome. It rises 6643 feet and is the third highest spot east of the Mississippi. (and then it is only less than 100ft lower than Mount Mitchell, which is the highest). It is the backdrop to Pigeon Forge. As you drive down the massive strip mall, there is Clingman's Dome in the background. Sunday was a beautiful day, with sunshine forecast all day. We decided that this mountain had to be conquered. We drove up in to the Smokies (as they call the park round here). True to the day the sunshine made the countryside look fabulous. Spring flowers were in abundance and everywhere we stopped there was a carpet of flowers, purple violets and white violets, little blue flowers and some little white ones that had fringed petals. Every now and again you could see a much bigger white flower, almost like a lily. Each plant had a single large flower, which was framed by three large leaves. We found that this flower is called Trillium, very pretty.

The road ran alongside a mountain stream, which became narrower and faster as we climbed, until it became one long cascade, tumbling over rocks and through gullies. The road was well made and not too steep, just a long grind uphill. In one place the road actually spiralled round on itself. We stopped at the Newfound Gap to gawp at the awesome views. But as we had further to go, we took the little road off the main highway which led us as high as we could go by car. We found a place to park the car and took with us enough supplies to last the entire trip, our lunch that is. Now we climbed on foot (or motorised chair), following the steep path to the very top. It was about a half mile walk. The air was noticeably thinner, so I did take it very carefully. On reaching the top there is a large concrete viewing platform which rises above the wooded dome, which is accessed up a long sweeping ramp. Sally made it up about halfway before deciding that her fear of heights was more important than the view. She then returned to the base camp back on solid ground. I continued to the very top of the tower. Oh! Oh! Oh! the view was spectacular. In the foreground mountains were all around, with their 'balds', ridges and deep valleys. As the eye swept to the horizon to the north you could see Pigeon Forge, then the high lands away on the other side of the Tennessee river. To the south you could see nothing but mountains away to Springer Mountain in Georgia, which is the start of the Appalachian Trial, which passes within an mile of the Dome. To the East, the Blue Ridge mountains stretched away. The rounded hump of Pisgah Mountain could be seen and alongside it the broader dome of Cold Mountain (which we saw up close in October), which overlook Maggie Valley and Asheville in North Carolina. Then, by looking carefully, I could see faintly on the horizon the long rump of Mount Mitchell, which according to the map is 73 miles away. Today was a clear day. The mountains were definitely blue.

When I returned to the bottom of the tower, Sally was swapping life histories with Hobbit, an Appalachian Trail walker, who had left Springer Mountain some three weeks before (200 miles of walking) and was making good progress towards Katahdin, Maine, a further 1978 miles up the trail. (The name is assumed for the purposes of the trail walk). We walked back down to the car park in the lovely warm afternoon sunshine and then returned to our trailer. What a lovely way to spend Easter Sunday. God's amazing creation in all it's glory.

Since arriving at Pigeon Forge I had been trying to find some Bluegrass music. Well ,using MeetUp on Facebook I found a group in the Knoxville area. One of the people I was in touch with was coming to Pigeon Forge for the weekend, so on Sunday evening Sally and I took our instruments across for the evening and we sat round a camp fire, drank a beer, talked and played until about 10.30. A nice way to end a great day.

Sunday, April 12, 2009

Saturday: Dixie Stampede

Last night we gave in to the glitz of Pigeon Forge and went to Dolly Parton's Dixeland Stampede.
Pigeon Forge does not summon images of 'kiss me quick', amusment arcades and shows. But that is exactly what it is!!! Right in the middle of the Smokie Mountains a resort has grown up of Blackpoolian proportions. One huge Strip Mall alternating motel, crazy golf, restaurant, gift shop, amusement arcade or attraction.
Anyway we decided to go to the Dixe Stampede. We had a great evening, loads of food, a whole (but small) chicken, jacket potato, corn, soup, apple pastry and coffee. All the while we were entertained by horse riding, cattle stampede, buckboard races, and other showmanship.
It was great fun. Unfortunately, no pics were allowed, so we have no evidence of having been apart from memories, oh and a little plastic boot/mug, a flag and a pencil.

Today is Easter Sunday when we remember what Jesus gave for us on the cross. Happy Easter to everyone.

Friday: Another tornado Watch

Friday the weather was miserable and we sat and watched a big storm come through. Hail and tornados were predicted, but did not materialise, just rain and thunder.
In the evening we went to a music session.
I had found this session through MeetUp on facebook, also a Park Ranger had described it to us.
It takes place every Friday evening in The Rocky Branch Community Center, just outside of Townsend. The center has several rooms and a hall.
At about 6.00, people start to arrive and get together in little groups to play. When we arrived we were given a tour of the place then left to join in wherever we wanted.
One room had gospel music, another 'mountain' music, which was open for anyone, from 6 to 90.
In another there was an obviously tight little band playing, with people watching.
One corridor had a group of instrumentalists (mainly), elsewhere there were groups that just sat together and played then moved on.
There were probably about 100 people there altogether. It was an exciting and interesting evening. Sally and I joined in the general 'mountain' music and had a great time, I took a picture of the band..
Later I sat in with the instrumentalists, who enjoyed taking music at a great pace. Particularly good were Alabama Jubilee and 'the shorter version' of Orange Blossom Special, which went on for about 10 minutes, getting faster and faster as it was driven by a couple of fiddlers. Excellent (thank you Paul for your coaching on that number).

Friday, April 10, 2009

Wednesday: Pigeon Forge and Cade's Cove

On Tuesday I took delivery of a new Data Card from Verizon and it seems work ok, so life is more rosy now. We can move on from Chattanooga.
Drove to Pigeon Forge on Wednesday and found a nice campground called Creekside RV. We have a spot just by the little creek.
Thursday we took a day trip to Cades Cove, it was beautiful scenery. Too many people though.
Came back on the road from Cades Cove to Gatlinburg. That road is really spectacular as it runs alongside a stream which has lots of rapids and water falls.


Tuesday, April 7, 2009

The Indecisive Battle of CHickamauga

On Sunday we toured the battlefield of Chickamauga (they pronounce it Chicka-mugger).
This was the site of one of the biggest battles of the Civil War. A Union army, led by General Rosencrans had forced the Confederate army, led by General Bragg, to retreat to South East to Chattanooga, then to abandon the town only to make a stand south of Chattanooga at Chickamauga. On 19th September 1863 Bragg ordered an offensive to take place against the Union on the next day. Braggs orders were misunderstood or went astray, so only part of the offensive happened, with mixed results. However on the Union side there were also mix ups, which left a gap in the defences, which were capitalised on by the Confederates. It ended up with the Union army retreating to Chattanooga and the Confederate army winning the day on the battlefield, but not defeating the Union. So they lay siege to Chattanooga for 2 months. It was a stalemate, however it gave time for the Union to strengthen its forces and for the Confederates position to become weaker. In November the Union advanced and defeated the confederates at the battle of Missionary Ridge (also the skirmish on top of Lookout Mountain). Bragg was forced to retreat and the road to the south lay open for Sherman. The next summer he advanced and took Atlanta, by Christmas he had marched Eastwards to Savannah, then North to Lafayette, where in March he defeated General Johnston at Bentonville and accepted his surrender at Bennetts Farm, Durham in April of 1865. The final act of the war.

Da,di, da,di, da, da. Pardon Me Boy

We have arrived in the land of the Choo Choo! Chattanooga. The name is synonymous with Glenn Miller and his big band from the 30’s, so I expected to see a small town with an Art Deco station. How wrong. Chattanooga is a large industrial town, built on the Tennessee River. It is a crossroads for east to west and north to south roads and rail, as well as being a port. The traffic is awful. Because of its position it became the focus for an important battle in the Civil War. Once the town had fallen it was the supply depot and starting point for Sherman’s attack on Atlanta and his March To The Sea. It is, however, good to know that the famous railway station is still there and preserved as a hotel. We spent a pleasant afternoon riding the electric trolley from the Riverside area to the Choo Choo Hotel and exploring its shops, antique carriages, which are now hotel rooms, lobby and restaurants. The whole building and railyard had been renovated as a very posh hotel. It very nicely reflected the mood evoked by Glenn Millers music.
We started our visit on Saturday by going to Lookout Mountain, which is a 2000 ft finger of a mountain that stands above Chattanooga. There is a National Memorial Park on the point as a memorial to the ‘Battle above the Clouds’ which formed part of the battle to break the siege a couple of months after the battle of Chickamauga. The view of Chattanooga is quite amazing, you can see the Tennessee River snaking away to the North, the flat uplands of the Cumberland Plateau to the West and North. Across the North East you can dimly see the Blue Ridge Mountains. They say you can see 7 states from there, however I think we could only see four. Alabama to the left, Tennessee in front, Georgia to the right and those blue ridge mountains of North Carolina way in the distance.

Friday, April 3, 2009

Friday: Sad goodbyes

Today we are moving on (how often have I started a blog page with this sentence). Unfortunately this mean's that having had a lovely week (tornado watch apart) we must say goodbye to our good friends. They are returning home to Florida, to continue with their life, while we will hitch up the trailer and move on to Chattanooga in Tennessee, just (read on). We have had an uneventful journey today. The Tennessee River is very impressive, so big, so far from the sea, bigger because of all the rain we have had this week, many fields and streams are flooded. Huntsville is on the edge of the Appalachian Mountains, which start at Birmingham, Alabama in the south. Our drive today takes us well into the mountains, though they aren't as tall as those further north they are quite impressive. Chattenooga is bigger than we had thought (expecting only a railway station), it has one major road passing through it, which takes local traffic, I75 North and South and I56 east to west all together. The entire length was almost at a standstill the whole time. We have parked in a small campground in the middle of Chattenooga, part of the Camping World store. The bad news is that it is close to I75. The good news is that we cannot hear the traffic. The bad news is that the noise of traffic has been drowned out by the local speedway track right next door. Oh well.
Camping World is right on the border between Georgia and Tennessee, the office is in Georgia and we camp in Tennessee, the good news here is that we only pay 7% sales tax, rather than the 9 1/4% sales tax for Tennessee.
We have come to Chattanooga to visit famous Civil War Battle sites: Lookout Mountain and Chiccamugua, as well as to find out about the train. More tomorrow.

Thursday: More Museums and some excitement

We had bought tickets to three museums, but only had time to visit two of them, so today we went to the third museum, the Old Railway Depot. Here we learned about how important the railways were to the war effort, for both sides in the Civil War. The Depot at Huntsville has remained virtually unchanged since 1850 when it was built. It shows the scars of when it was occupied by the Federal forces in 1862. It was never retaken, so meant that an important railway remained useless to the Confederate forces.
We returned to camp after lunch to do some laundry. The day had started out clear and blue, however the weather had deteriorated and it was now raining. We planned to move on the next day to Chattanooga, but had not booked a campsite, so when we had finished the laundry Sally had a rest and I took the computer and went a mile or two down the road to get a good signal (the mountain top is the first place where I could not get a signal from Verizon). Meanwhile the rain was getting heavier, so while I was stopped I thought it a good idea to check the local radio (I was actually was parked in the grounds of the radio station WAAS), only to find that they were in the middle of a special weather report. There was a weather front on the way, We were in a Tornado Watch Area! A tornado had touched down to the north (Meridianville) and another was touching down at a place called Big Cove and headed for Green Mountain (we were on Mont Sante), so I looked for these places on the GPS, only to find that they were actually about 2 miles to the south, uh oh! At that moment a siren went off, long and continuous, the sign for Tornado alert, the signal to find shelter. I scooted back up the hill to Sally, and sat in the car next to the trailer, checking exactly what was happening with the weather and waiting for the torrential rain to ease up. The ranger came round with his pick-up, blue and red lights blazing and using his loud speaker to warn us to go to the shower building as a tornado may be imminent. I then collected Sally, even in the rain, using poncho and umbrella we kept reasonably dry, though we both got wet feet as the truck was now standing in a three inch deep river of water carrying run off from the slope we were on.
We drove the truck to the shower building and took shelter there, with all the other campers, for about half an hour while the storm passed over us. The rain had been so loud drumming on the trailer roof that Sally had not been able to hear the Rangers warning. On our return to the trailer the water had been so fierce that it had shifted decorative logs that I could only just lift to move back into place. Interestingly, though the tornado had passed within a couple of miles, there was no appreciable wind where we were.
Our friends come to our trailer for the evening and we had a pot luck supper (mostly the Chile left from earlier in the week). An exciting afternoon. Now we know what to do when on a campsite when there is a Tornado warning!!!!

Wednesday: Museum Day

Today was a great day for weather; the weather seems to come in cycles as fronts pass over. There was not a cloud in the sky all day. We chose to go to with our friends to the family museum and then the Constitution Village. We had a great time as the kids dressed up as pioneers and we found out a lot about the past presidents and some more about Alabama’s history. In the evening it was warm enough to sit out and jam.

Tuesday: Space Camp

We had decided to go to the Space museum on Tuesday as the weather looked bad. We were right, it was cold damp and drizzly. We had a great time going round the museum . One section of the museum is set aside for the famous ‘Space Camp’, where they filmed the film ‘Space Camp’ (though they made it look like Cape Canaveral). There was lots of interesting space junk, including a complete Saturn V. There is now a lot more information about the new Ares rocket, the successor to the Shuttle. It looks like it will be big and the first part of the programme will be launched this summer. Why a space museum in Huntsville? Because Huntsville is the place where Werner Von Braun was located back in 1950 with the supply of V2 rockets he brought with him. They took over a disued chemical warfare facility. This grew into the Redstone Army Rocket Range, which then became home to NASA as the Marshall Space Center. It is really the centre for development of rocket engines, rockets, satellites and manned vehicles, including the lunar landers.

Monday: A Walk in the Woods

The weather today promised to be good. The forecast for tomorrow was wet, so we took the opportunity to explore the mountain top campground we were on. It had a number of trails along the top and sides, so we set out from a car park to find ‘The Three Caves’, only for Sally and I to have to turn back because the trails was not wheelchair friendly, even though it started that way. So we went to the caves by car, while they walked. The caves were actually an old limestone quarry but they had continued to mine the limestone right under the mountain. There were three huge entrances and you could see back for about 100 yards that they had used ‘room and pillar’ mining to extract the limestone. The quarry was overgrown and very pretty.

Sunday Moving on to Huntsville

Reasonable drive to Huntsville, met up with our friends Jay, Christie, Noah, Myah and Sarah, who were on a Spring Break Adventure from their home in Florida. It was nice to see a friendly face again. The weather was chilly, but we still managed to eat round their campfire, using their new campfire cooking equipment. It was quite satisfying to use the campfire to cook. We had chile.

Saturday: Recovery

Saturday we set aside for a bit of relaxation, Sally found a Salon in Wal-Mart and had her hair done, while I did a bit of shopping, tried to work out finances and where we were going next.